The shuttle as an extension of your hands

Any weaver knows that the loom is only half the story. The other half is what you hold in your hand as you throw, catch and beat. A shuttle that suits your loom, your yarn and your body can turn a frustrating session into a rhythm that feels almost like breathing. Choose poorly and you will fight every pick, wrestle with snagging selvedges and end the day with aching shoulders. This guide walks through the main types of shuttle, how bobbins and pirns differ, and how to match them to your work.

Boat shuttles: speed and selvedges

The boat shuttle is the classic choice for most floor looms and table looms. Its smooth, rounded shape glides across the warp, and because it carries a bobbin or pirn inside, the yarn unwinds from the centre rather than dragging behind. That internal tension is what gives you clean, tidy selvedges. A well-weighted boat shuttle will run true along the shuttle race, even at speed.

Boat shuttles come in lengths from around 25 cm for narrow looms up to 45 cm or more for wide floor looms. The rule is simple: the shuttle should be long enough to pass easily through the shed but not so long that it feels clumsy. For a 60 cm weaving width, a 30–35 cm shuttle is usually ideal. Heavier shuttles suit thicker yarns and slower weaving; lighter ones are better for fine cloth. If you weave a lot of twill or plain weave at speed, a shuttle with a low profile and a smooth bottom will tire you less.

Bobbins, pirns and tension

These two words get used interchangeably, but they are not the same. A bobbin is a flanged cylinder that fits inside a boat shuttle. The yarn is wound around the barrel, and the flanges stop it sliding off. Bobbins are quick to wind and easy to swap, but the yarn comes off the side, which can cause slight tension variation as the bobbin empties.

A pirn is a tapered, flangeless spool designed for end-feed or side-feed shuttles. The yarn is wound in a precise pattern, and it pays off from the end rather than the side. Pirns hold more yarn for their size and give remarkably consistent tension from first pick to last. They are essential for end-feed shuttles, which are popular on production looms and for weaving with delicate or slippery yarns. Winding a pirn well takes practice: you need even layers, no bulges, and a firm but not tight build. A sloppy pirn will snag, tangle or collapse mid-pick.

If you use a boat shuttle with a bobbin, check that the bobbin spins freely but not loosely. A tiny felt washer or a tension spring inside the shuttle can make all the difference to selvedge quality.

Stick shuttles and specialist options

Stick shuttles are the simplest: a flat, polished piece of wood with a notch at each end. You wind yarn directly onto the stick, either in a figure-of-eight or by wrapping it around the middle. They are cheap, light and perfect for narrow bands, rigid heddle looms and sampling. Because there is no internal tension, you control the yarn by hand, which is fine for short lengths but can lead to loose selvedges if you are not careful.

Rug shuttles are bigger, heavier stick shuttles designed for thick weft. They have a deep notch to hold chunky yarn and enough weight to help the shuttle drop through the shed. Ski shuttles are a curved variant, often used for tapestry and rug weaving, where the shape helps the shuttle slide over thick warp. Then there are end-feed shuttles, which use a pirn and a tensioning device to deliver yarn at a constant rate. They are brilliant for long warps and fine threads, but they cost more and demand a clean pirn.

Matching shuttle to loom and yarn

Start with your loom. A rigid heddle loom with a 40 cm weaving width will feel best with a 25–30 cm stick or boat shuttle. A 90 cm floor loom needs a 40–45 cm boat shuttle to cross the shed without you reaching. Jack looms and countermarche looms have different shed geometry; if your shuttle keeps catching, it may be too tall or too wide for the race.

• Loom width: the shuttle should cross the shed without you leaning forward.
• Yarn thickness: light shuttle for fine silk or linen; heavier for thick wool or rag strips.
• Selvedge quality: adjust bobbin tension or shuttle weight if edges are drawing in or looping.

Next, consider your yarn. Fine silk, linen and worsted want a light shuttle with a smooth, polished surface and a pirn that pays off smoothly. Thick wool, roving and rag strips want a heavier shuttle that will not bounce out of the shed. If you weave with many colours, you may want several bobbins or pirns wound and ready, so you can change weft without stopping to wind.

Selvedges are the tell-tale. If your edges are drawing in or looping, try a lighter shuttle, a different bobbin tension or a slower throw. If the weft is pulling tight at the edges, your pirn may be wound too tightly or your shuttle tension too high.

Comfort, care and long sessions

Weaving for hours at the bench is physical. A shuttle that is too heavy will tire your wrist; one that is too light will make you grip harder. Look for a shuttle that feels balanced in your hand, with a smooth finish that will not snag. Many weavers wax their shuttles occasionally with a little beeswax or furniture polish to keep them gliding.

Bobbins and pirns need care too. Wooden ones can swell in damp air, so store them somewhere dry. Plastic ones are more stable but can crack if dropped. Check the flanges for rough edges that might catch yarn, and keep a spare bobbin or pirn wound for your current project. That small habit saves a lot of frustration when you are in the flow.

Ultimately, the best shuttle is the one you forget you are holding. Try a few, borrow from weaving friends, and notice how your shoulders feel after an hour. Your body will tell you what works.